Quintodecimo: Making Magic in the Mountains of Campania
There is more to the shin of Italy’s boot than luxurious coastlines, ancient remnants of past civilizations, and the grand (yet somewhat ominous) Mt Vesuvius. They harness the magical pocket of the wine world known as Campania, which Pliny the Elder referred to as Campania Felix, or… the happy, fertile land. Tucked a bit inland, just about 80km NE of Naples in the mountainous village of Mirabella Eclano within the greater Taurasi DOCG lies Quintodecimo. Also known as the region of Irpinia, this is the heart of some of the most textured, complex whites in Italy - home of the ancient Falerno as well. It was always so, but in the past 50 years, it’s had a bit of a renaissance, thanks to quality-minded winemakers like Professor Luigi Moio who was driven by a vision to realize the potential for his hometown region.
Professor Moio grew up into a winemaking tradition. The love and curiosity his father encouraged inspired him to finish his PhD in Burgundy, studying wine aromatics of all things. He finished around 1994 and eventually returned to his homeland, where he and his wife took over in 2001. From that day forward, he built upon his father’s foundation to embark on what he refers to as his “life project.” There is little that separates Luigi from his family, the earth, the cellar, and his village. It is all connected. It is for this reason the winery itself is, in fact, in the center of the vineyard. To him, this is not for show, rather for himself. He explains, “It is the winery I’ve always dreamed of. Simple, small, basic, without any particular technology… a place of peace, of nobility of silence, of meditation, of concentration. It’s a simple but rational place which encourages man to be patient.”
This region has an array of microclimates, so it is hard to generalize. Many experience dry, hot summers, which are ideal for the famed reds of the area. It can also give a bit of tropical warmth to the whites. The Moios however, with their northfacing sites, find themselves in a wetter area inland from some of the other growers around them. As such, the whites tend to have more aromatic lift (no doubt a priority for someone with Moio’s research background!). They get some breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea and enjoy a decent bump of elevation (400-500m) from the Apennines. The main grapes here are the ones we carry from Quintodecimo: the DOCG-named Greco di Tufo and Fiano de Avellino as well as Falanghina (an important grape for Falerno but dynamite on its own) and Aglianico…their answer to Nebbiolo I suppose? Maybe that’s too simplistic a generalization, as this grape really has its own strong and mighty distinct personality. There was a neat article from Ian D’Agata a few years back where he discusses the general personality of the grapes here.
The Moios think of their winery as a farm, their vineyards as gardens. It is clear that they think carefully about everything they do - the big ‘why’ behind it all. Kind of reminds me of our wines from Pian dell’Orino to the north in Tuscany. These grapes are all farmed organically and raised with little intervention on the whole. All the whites have a brief dance with oak. But they are are aromatically pure and distinctive as they are deep and textured. They are memorable wines. It takes opening just one to understand the premium price they carry, which, compared to the rising costs of other weighty, sensational whites from Burgundy, it begins to look like a steal.
We got next to nothing, but they have just arrived. Please share with your customers:
Exultet Fiano de Avellino DOCG -A grape that has existed here for over 2000 years and once called ‘vitro apiana’, or, the vine of bees, Fiano at its best (which Quintodecimo is that) show an almost Chenin like tendency towards white flowers and honey, a nuttiness. It is somehow luscious and yet dry, steely, and mineral. It’s a trip.
Giallo d’Arles Greco di Tufo DOCG -Some refer to these wines as almost red wine-like in nature. They are sturdy, structured, and even have a bit of tannin. Deep apricot and quince is such a great description Moio provides. Jancis would say they are the most compelling and complex perhaps. I think all of these whites from Quintodecimo far outpace their competitors, though, so its hard to say this particular bottling is ‘better’ or more complex. Rather… a different animal. One I love!
Via del Campo Irpinia Falanghina DOC - D’Agata refers to an almost herbal, menthol undertone to these wines. I love that. It makes me want to buy a bottle right now and crack it open with that in mind! These, too, often have a faint whiff of honey and pineapple in the background, fine minerality, and an unmistakable sense of the Mediterranean.
Terra d’Eclano Irpinia Aglianico DOC - Many Aglianico can disappoint, which their brooding, baked fruit. Like a clumsy linebacker at a ball. This, however, shows the grandness of this grape. Always structured, balance, forthright, and well put together, this wine boasts the classic descriptors of licorice, plums, berries, and coffee.