Summertime, and the livin's easy in the South of France...
As we inch closer to summertime, I get a little nostalgic about the Southern Rhone - the sunflowers, white asparagus, black truffles, and lavender. The sunshine and warmth that inspires the cicadas to chime all evening to the sound of clattering silverware and soft murmurs of voices on a restaurant terrace in the middle of nowhere. I just love it.
The Southern Rhone, like many, are feeling the effects of climate change, but not necessary in the form of heat. Rather, erratic storms, which is detrimental to the early-budding, thin-skinned Grenache grape. Many are rethinking their practices as well. We are seeing more conversion to organic and sustainable viticulture, more native yeasts ferments, greater use of whole clusters, and the suggestions of some more natural young producers, though it’s not as prevalent as some other areas in France, perhaps.
We just received a few selections from some of our beloved longstanding producers in the south of France. And it seemed a good moment to pause and give them all a moment of recognition. We can take for granted at times those that have been with us longest. These are very special domaines with wonderful stories to share.
We have one from 2019 (Banneret) which is a bruiser of a vintage in the best possible way. This is the wine for those who want to feel the warmth of the Rhone sun, the strength of its expression, and more concentration on the mid palate. It is a crowdpleaser. A big warm hug. Three warm spells worked these vines deep into the soils. The berries were small. Skins thicker. The tannins are noticeably pronounced and carry with it deeper spice and darker fruits. This won’t be quite the case for Banneret, who uses whole cluster to brighten theirs up. No matter the vintage, theirs can always be certain to sing a little higher note than some of their neighbors. I recall each year getting a sense of brambly provencal herbs from those wines.
Most are coming from the every singular 2020 vintage - a year that was not quite comparable to any other. As anyone from there, and the response might be a lifted brow. It was… strange. It was warm and dry as expected, but not the belabored heat waves of 2019 that showed itself in the ultimate expression. They even got a drop of rain in late summer that allowed for a prolonged, classic harvest that began late September and early October for most. These wines are fresh, red-fruited, and supple. There is a floral component that lifts its demeanor. They aren’t dense and concentrate. Some critics might say they aren’t meant for the 20-30 year hall as some CdPs can certainly do. But they will bring so much pleasure over the next decade. I guess we will have to see…
Anyway, here is what we have in stock. This is the perfect time to pull a bottle and have your customers revisit some exceptional producers from the south.
Domaine du Banneret
Jean-Claude Vidal assumed this winery, which has roots going back to 1405, in 1989 when it was clear that this long-lived generational estate would go to someone else if he didn’t step in. An architect by trade, he called on some of the greats to help him through those first couple vintages: Jacques Reynaud of Chateau Rayas and Henri Bonneau to get his start. He pulls from 5 hectares and 9 parcels, largely of the galet sort in terms of soil. On average the vines are about 70 years old. About 60% Grenache (nearby Rayas), a good dollop of Syrah, and Mourvedres, then a medley of others that are permitted in this area. All the grapes are cofermented in whole clusters - a style that once harkened a more traditional process prior to destemmers, but that many are beginning to return to for its sensory and textural benefits. Aged in neutral foudres for 2 years. These wines are always rustic and saline - loaded with hints of herbs and umami.
2019 Domaine du Banneret CdP
Font du Loup
You might never meet a more cheerful and bright-eyed winemaker as you will in Anne Charlotte Melia-Bachas (‘Acha’), who along with her husband Laurent run an estate that has been in her family since 1942. But don’t let her fool you. She is a serious winemaker that has really propelled this family winery to the next level with her sustainable/organic approach to viticulture and high expectations for quality. These wines offer several points of distinction, as they are planted on sandy soils on slopes in the northern part of CdP that are also north facing and windy - they are always the last to harvest. They tend always to be the most fragrant, perfumed, and silken of our CdPs.
2020 Font du Loup CdP Rouge - 60 Grenache, 20 Mourvedre, 15 Syrah, 5 Cinsault, Grenache in Foudres, Syrah and Mourvedre in barrique
2020 Font du Loup CdP Blanc - 35 Grenache, 35 Roussanne, 15 Clairette, 15 Bourboulenc
2020 Font du Loup CdP Puy Rolland - 100% Grenache Single parcel at the top of La Crau planted in 1905, aged in neutral foudres for 18 months
Domaine Jean Royer
To offer yet another wonderful contrast, we head to the southern portion of CdP to the 12 hectares Jean-Marie’s care of Domaine Jean Royer. He was only 2 when his father passed, so it wasn’t until later that he could reclaim the vines they had leased out to others in order to make a living. He resides on a mixed terroir of pebbles, clays, and sand. His wines always startle me with their elegance, as he himself was an avid rugby player in his youth. But he has a soft touch in the winery. They wines are never boisterous or overblown. They find freshness and vivid red fruit (Burgundy is his inspiration, and you can taste it). He favors long, cool ferments to tease out the nuance and create more complexity. His CdP is about 75% Grenache with the addition of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault. Petit is always a playful blend of Grenache and Syrah coming from a few parcels as well as declassified CdP.
2021 Domaine Jean Royer Le Petit Roy 21ème Année
2020 Domaine Jean Royer Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition