Distinctly Chavignol: More Specific Sancerre from Gerard Boulay
Taken from: https://www.crushedgrapechronicles.com/sauvignon-blanc-from-the-small-hamlet-of-chavignol-in-sancerre-winophiles/
It seems no one can get enough Sancerre these past few years. If one runs out (as they always seem to do…quickly), another slides into its place on the shelf or btg. It garners devoted consumers who prefer this Sauvignon Blanc to all others. And perhaps that is easy to see why - it has a particular profile that has a bit more nuance. It by no means has the intensity of a New Zealand style, nor the earthiness, waxiness, occasional oak, and often blending attributes of Semillon in some Bordelaise examples.
Sometimes we can forget in the height of Sancerre-mania, the rare and special ones, though, that really stand out from the rest. Those who reflect a deep, intimate engagement with with this region, a long history, and who hold some of the most rare, site-driven parcels throughout Sancerre. These are the producers who have brought this region the fame and an association with high quality that so many have benefitted from to this day. One such producer, we’ve proudly represented for over decade now at Old World: Gerard Boulay.
The Boulay family has had a presence in Sancerre since 1380. They are nestled in the bucolic hamlet of Chavignol where it was known already to be a special place for grapegrowing. This is one of 14 villages surrounding the town of Sancerre that is recognized for making the wines of this region. Chavignol is a mere few miles west of Sancerre but distinctive, holding some of the most prized slopes of Kimmeridgian limestone and marl (terres blanches) - an ancient chalky soils that I laden with oyster fossils; what we find in Chablis. So particular is this area, it was Chavignol (not Sancerre) that was found on the labels prior to becoming and appellation in 1936.
There are three predominant soil types you will find throughout Sancerre: silex (clay with flin — giving laser focus and elegance to a wine), Oxfordian limestone in the form of caillottes (limestone/gravel) and griottes (limestone/clay) which contribute more accessible fruit and floral character to the wines in their youth, and then the terres blanches described above which makes way for the most structured and long-lived.
The Boulays organically farm 9 hectares on the beloved terres blanches slopes of Chavignol with an average age of 45 years. They use a mixture of inox and neutral barrels; native yeast ferments, modest use of SO2. Each parcel is unique and offers insight to the true terroir Sancerre possesses. We have a whole new crop of selections arriving next week, and we wanted to give you a little insight as to what each parcel offers (pricing to come on the single vineyards):
2022 Chavignol Blanc - A compilation of the youngest estate vines.
2022 Les Mont Damnes - This famously south-facing steep cru is a feather in anyone’s cap. The Boulay’s have been making wines from this site since 1982. Les Mont Damnes (hills of the damned) sees a challenging 45 degree slope on pure terres blanches at over 400 meters of elevation. Its reputation goes as far back as the 11th century. All I want right now is some of their local warmed Crottin di Chavignol goat cheese and a chilled glass of this wine.
2022 La Cote - One of three official ‘crus’ in the Chavignol, La [Grande] Cote sits upon a hard, thin topsoil of Terre blanches, giving these wines so much nerve and precision. It’s a remarkable site that the Boulays partially own and rent to create this cuvee that they’ve offered since 2010.
2022 Comtesse - Coming from the lower part of Les Mont Damnes, this is always a more powerful expression of this parcel from older vines (50-75 years).
2022 Clos de Beaujeu - A remarkable site that has one of the longest histories in Chavignol. Though the Clos no longer stands, this vineyard is very different from the others we see from Boulay. They farm under 1 hectare of 30-60 vines on a 60 degree slope. The soils are a mixture of pebbles, limestone, and fossils. There is a singular flavor to these wines that set them apart — a savory edge and herbal intensity that keeps the mind engaged. Plus, it’s always the prettiest bottles with an idyllic farm scene that captures the magic of Chavignol.