Claudio Mariotto: From the Hills of Tortona
From: http://www.turinitalyguide.com/wine-region-in-piedmont/
Claudio Mariotto represents the third generation winemaker in his home region of Tortona between Vho and Sarezzano in the Colli Tortonesi in southeastern Piedmont. His grandfather Bepi began this winery in the 1921. Today Claudio cultivates 54 hectares of vines on 100 hectares of estate land with the help of his wife, brother, and mother. They define their approach to viticulture as ‘buon sense’, or common sense — refraining from pesticides and a focus on vine balance.
The geography of the Colli Tortonesi (the hills of Tortona) is rather unique. It is the meeting point of Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, and Liguria. It feels the flux of this cultural cross section in its food, practices, and wine. Colli Tortonesi is the farthest east wine region in Piedmont — at the mouth of the Po River valley, nestled in the northern reaches of the Apennines range, and not too far from the moderating Mediterranean Sea only 60km away. It is peppered with oak and chestnut woods amid rolling hills that see vineyards that range from 150-400 meters in elevation. A symphony of diverse soils, aspects, and microclimates make the Colli Tortonesi a region that is not easily reduced to a type. Though Cortese and Barbera reigns in this region for white and red respectively, it is also home to a plethora of lesser known indigenous varieties like Croatina, Corvina, Dolcetto, Freisa, and the hallowed Timorasso — a white grape variety that nearly went extinct but for a few passionate individuals/wineries such as Claudio Mariotto who sought to save it from obscurity beginning in the early 90’s.
Timorasso has a history in this area since the Middle Ages. It really wasn’t until phylloxera followed by a shift towards more productive grapes for mass consumption that Timorasso found itself fading in the background to Cortese primarily. Timorasso is a grape that manages to walk a fine line of savory, mineral, citrus, white florals, and delicate herbal qualities — it can demonstrate enviable structure for a white and remarkable aging capacity. Mariotto believes so much in this variety’s potential to translate terroir, he and his team produce four wines from four different Timorasso vineyards throughout the estate to showcase this point. They produce many wines from many grapes, but Timorasso is Claudio’s favorite child, so to speak.
What we have:
Claudio Mariotto Colli Tortonesi Barbera 'Territorio’ 2019 $15/$14 case 1/$13 on 3 - a selection of vineyards between Vho and Sarezzano, W/SW orientation, 250-300m, destemmed, 12 months in stainless steel followed by 6 months in bottle. A much bright expression of Barbera than those from Alba. Marked by strawberry, black cherry, and tobacco. A playful balance between whimsy and serious structure.
Claudio Mariotto Colli Tortonesi Freisa 'Braghe’ 2019 $15/14/13- W/SW orientation, 250-300m, destemmed, short maceration, 6 month in stainless steel followed by 6 in bottle. Very fresh and lively, red-fruited (morello cherry, raspberry) with hints of rose and earth.
Claudio Mariotto Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 'Bricco San Michele’ 2019 $18/17/16 - From the youngest Timorasso vineyard. E/SE orientation. In Sarezzano 250-300m. One year on fine lees with light batonnage. 12 months in the bottle. Floral, fruity, flinty mineral notes an a hint of chamomile.
Claudio Mariotto Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 'Derthona’ 2019 $18/17/16 - A medley of Timorasso taken from 30 ha from a wide range of orientation/elevations. One year on fine lees with light batonnage. 12 months in the bottle. Noticeable freshness and salinity.
