Mario Zanusso explaining the differences between Galea and Brazan, courtesy of winery website

Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour. - TS Eliot

This quote on i Clivi’s website, really couldn’t be more appropriate. Theirs is a story that does not begin with “For five generations, my family…” Sure, Ferdinando Zanusso grew up sipping on his dad’s garage wine, like so many of the locals did, but it was his exposure to the great wines of the world over the course of his adulthood that fed his imagination and eventually lured him back home after thirty years and three jobs in West Africa (including a position with the United Nation’s World Food Program). In 1996, Veneto-born Ferdinando Zanusso purchased a vineyard in his wife’s hometown of Cormons in the Collio. And so a new tradition began.

Today, Ferdinando’s son Mario is at the helm. He too had to find his own way. He studied economics, but it found it all so intangible. Traveling home, and walking through the vineyard, he couldn’t help but identify with the vines that were establishing themselves deep into the Ponca soils. Like the vines, he longed to be rooted where his family was in Fruilian hills. Alas, the prodigal son returned home to maintain their tradition.

For some, tradition means repetition, uniformity, maybe even stagnancy at its worse. But tradition in winemaking is really just being consistent about one’s approach, philosophy, and ethos. For the Zanusso, they will never waiver from wanting to show grape and place over everything else. How they achieve that has evolved a little over the years, but only in as much as they better understand their vines and their home. Zanusso’s tradition has steadfastly pushed against dogma and embraced curiosity and wonder. Friuli arguably has a few distinct styles, and theirs has managed to not be squeaky polished, nor flashy and oak-forward, nor are they rustic. They tend toward earthy, fragrant, lifted, and also very defined varietal character. They have a soul. And perhaps that is the ’thing’ that stand out the most.

They work with very old vines (most 60-90 years of age). They organically farm about 11 hectares planted mostly to indigenous varieties (as well as some Merlot) in Friuli’s two most heralded DOCs: Friuli Colli Orientali (8 hectares) and the Collio (3 hectares). Their Galea (Colli Orientali) and Brazan (Collio) vineyards are a mere 3 km apart, but they are a fascinating study in the difference between these two zones, as they each see the same Ponca (calcareous clay marl) with sandstone soils and sit at roughly the same elevation (150 meters). However, Brazan in the Collio feels more of the sea breeze and stares out to the south and southwest; is it also more humid and experiences greater diurnal variation in temperature. Galea, on the other hand, in Colli Orientali has more persistent south/southeast exposure all day long yet still benefits from winds that are pushing down from the preapline north. Many note the marine saltiness in the Brazan-born wines with more broadness on the palate, where those of Galea tend to be more expressive, warm fruited, and earthy. It is for this reason that the winery anoints their Brazan in a cool, marine blue color and their Galea in a warm, sun-kissed orange tone.

We will be working with their Rosaspina wines as well as their two cru single vineyard bottlings of Galea and Brazan. The Rosaspina wines are clear, candid, pure expressions of perhaps the most traditional Friulian grapes: Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Schioppettino. Friulano is perhaps the most significant grape in Friuli - as such, you will be able to taste a wide range of its expression in the wines that are coming.

Here’s a bit more on the wines we have right now…

i Clivi Ribolla Gialla 'a Tessa’ 2021 - 100% Ribolla from young vines on the Gramogliano Hills in Colli Orientali. Hand-picked, very light pressing, fermented and aged in stainless steel 6 months, 50ppm total SO2. An appetizing wine with inviting salinity, lemon peel, almond skin, and white floral notes.

i Clivi Friulano cru 'San Pietro’ 2020 - 100% 70 year old Friulano grown in the San Pietro vineyard in the Gramogliano Hills of Colli Orientali DOC. Hand-picked, very light pressing, fermented and aged in stainless steel a minimum of 6 months, 50ppm total SO2 . Beautifully herbaceous, nutty, and quite fresh.

i Clivi Friulano cru 'San Lorenzo’ 2019 - 100% 80 year old Friulano grown in the San Lorenzo vineyard in Collio DOC. About a year on lees in tank before bottling. Fresh cut herbs and florals balance a more serious note of almond that lingers on the finish.

i Clivi Colli Orientalli DOC 'Galea’ 2019 - 90% Friulano, 10% Verduzzo. The 70 year old Galea vineyard in the Gramogliano Hills in Colli Orientali DOC. In stainless steel on lees for 24 months. A deeper expressions with toasted almond, umami, honey, and fennel.

i Clivi Collio DOC 'Brazan’ 2019 - 90% Friulano, 10% Malvasia Istriana. Certified organic 80 year old Brazan vineyard in the Collio DOC. Stainless steel on lees 18 months. Really demonstrates its proximity to the Mediterranean with its note of salt and citrus. Profoundly long and intense.

i Clivi Schioppettino 2021 - 100% Schioppettino from the Eastern hills around Udine. Southeastern exposition. 14 days skin contact, fermented and aged in stainless steel for 8 months. Red fruited, peppery, and scrumptious!

The Wines of i Clivi: Where Tradition and Innovation Meet