A New Chapter for Chateau de Roquefort in Provence

taken from winery website

We have Chateau de Roquefort arriving soon along with a new offering of their white: the 2022 Petit Sale blanc. If you recall, Raimond de Villeneuve sold this historic domaine back in September. This winery had been in the family since 1812, however the time came to decide if he could afford to buy out his two sisters’ shares, and alas, it just didn’t make sense. Raimond really threw himself into the property for about 30 years and made it what it is today. The article shared with you all back in December from the Revue du Vin de France said, “Raimond de Villeneuve wants to separate himself from this property situated in Roquefort-la-Bédoule, above Cassis. Alas ! This vigneron will leave a hole in Provence.  Let us salute his work. Returning to the domaine in the mid 1990s, Raimond de Villeneuve, 60 years old, contibuted to the notoriety of the Côtes de Provence."

It is a great relief to know that the very talented Margaux Gentile is staying on at Chateau Roquefort as they enter this new chapter — she has been Raimond’s right-hand cellar master for about 6 years now. 2020 represents a special bittersweet vintage, as it was the last that Raimond picked himself (along with others, of course, including long time vineyard manager Jose) and oversaw through harvest. The have an incredible team at Chateau de Roquefort — all are natives from the village. The new owners — Cedric and Violaine Menet were hardly a fast decision. Cedric has been spending more and more time over the past few years understanding Raimond’s approach and philosophy in an effort to maintain the sale and integrity of the brand. 

The Roquefort-la-Bédoule is special — it’s a commune in the Bouche-des-Rhone department that sits at 390 meters amid spectalular limestone outcroppings only about 5 km north of Cassis (note how much closer this is to the sea than so many other subregions around Provence). It is nestled within the Provencal hills of the the Massif Sainte Beaume. Remnants old rear-guard fortifications note a time when Greek Celtic settlers were attempting to protect Marseille and Cassis from invasion. Alas, we all know the ending to that story, and the Romans blessed this relics as ‘Rocca Fortis’, as we now called Roquefort. 

Chateau de Roquefort holds nearly 30 hectares to a variety of grapes, uniquely not emphasizing rose as so many others from Provence do. They are certified in organic viticulture (certified since 2006), but they go further applying biodynamic practices as well. Over the years, they have turned away from nursery recommendations for clones and sought to propagate from within with massale selection for grafting in order to preserve the diversity, resilience, and balance in their vineyards. A combination of proximity to the sea, higher elevation, limestone soils, mindful farming, old vines, and an orientation towards the North-Northwest make for some incredible freshness, precision, and complex character in these wines. I love to share the quote from their site that speaks to the mission they have always had to create great wine without taking themselves too seriously … “These are joyful wines… for people who seriously enjoy drinking wines for the pure pleasure they will procure.” 

Here’s what we have showing up hopefully next week:

Chateau de Roquefort Cote de Provence Rose 'Corail' 2022

A wonderful medley of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Clairette, and Vermentino (not your typical Provence mixer!). Recently received a lovely review from Yohan Castaign (Parker) with 92 points. He describes the typical classic Provence profile of red berries, spring florals, lemon but notes the vibrancy of the acid balanced by a “weighty structure” as well… “juicy and supple” he also picks up on some grapefruit (thank you, limestone). 

Chateau de Roquefort IGP Bouches du Rhone 'Petit Sale’ 2022

A pretty enticing blend of Clairette (locally called "le sale"), Vermentino/Rolle, and Ugni Blanc from vineyards that were planted as far back as 1954. MLF blocked — all about clarity here, as it sees no wood, only stainless steel/concrete for ferment and aging. Margaux describes this wine as always keeping “the soul of youthful energy”!