Image from https://www.masdelibian.com/en/

Mas de Libian haș long been a favorite of ours at Old World. The Thibon family has an incredible history with this land located on the far end of the Ardeche gorge in the Saint Michel d’Ardeche on the west side of the Rhone River (north and the the west of Chateauneuf by about 45km). It’s a very different environment from more southerly southern Rhone appellations — exposed to more elements such as hail and the moody mistral winds. But it is home for the Thibons, it is provides a uniqueness to their expression that is singularly their own.

The Thibon family settled in this area back in 1670. What began as a hunting lodge became a farm (‘mas’), which has served their family since. Grapes were not the sole focus over the centuries - just one of many products. During WWI, when Gustave Thibon was left to his own devices as his father fought, he actually turned to philosophy over farming — something he became world renowned for in the 20th century. It really wasn’t until 1970 when his son, Jean-Pierre, sought to restore the estate’s purpose as a farm and built a cellar. He then married a brilliant cardiologist, Jacqueline, a few years later and they had three girls — all of whom were bit by the wine bug. One such daughter, Helene (and her husband Alain), took over as the winemaker in 1995 following in her father’s footsteps to maintain organic principles. She took it even further with biodynamic certification in 2005 and became quite a spokesperson for other French vignerons going down that path. Her sister Catherine also joined in 2006 and bought a Comtois draft horse Nestor to the team (who has sadly recently passed but handed the reigns to the loving Bambi) to plow the fields. Now, her son Aurelian has been slowly assuming more responsibility and is leading the next generation at this storied estate.

The Thibons farm 25 hectares of grapes and another 8 hectares specifically devoted to other kinds of agriculture that supports a healthier, symbiotic ecosystem — from olives to and grains to flower gardens with bees. They have a robust, sustaining garden. What’s really special is that these soils have never seen a synthetic chemical. This is never something their family turned to even in the years when it was so alluring and seemingly harmless. These vines have always fended for themselves.

Each cuvee has its own special twist and narrative. We are grateful to have a hearty lineup from this beloved estate:

Mas de Libian Cotes du Rhone Blanc Cave Vinum 2021 and 2022 (40% Viognier, 40% Roussanne, 20% Clairette on clay-limestone with cool northern exposure). Gobelet trained, pressed into tank for cool fermentation except for the Clairette which ferments and ages in Stockinger demi-muids for a few months. Blended in early spring. A wonderful stand in for CdP blanc when you get that craving but don’t care to pay the price. Lovely with intense cheeses, fish, and lemony roast chicken.

Mas de Libian Cotes du Rhone BuveZ'en Rose 2022 (Grenache, Syrah, Counoise on sand, galet, and clay-limestone) This wine is hand-harvested, pneumatically pressed, and fermented cool to preserve bright, youthful aromatics. An easy pleaser made for caprese, street tacos, and bbq.

Mas de Libian Vin de Petanque 2021 and 2021 - (often about 75% Grenache and a myriad of ever changing Rhone grapes of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cinsault and Vaccarese on a clay-limestone base with flat limestone rocks and river stones) This wine is about levity — named for a game of boules (think bocce), this is a wine of the moment. It is meant to be guzzled and enjoyed (preferably with a chill). This always has a little more freshness to it and a touch lighter body — maceration only 5 days after gentle crushing. A summer red no doubt.

Mas de Libian Cotes du Rhone Bout d'Zan 2021 -(80% Grenache, 20%Syrah on a variety of soils from clay and limestone to sand, and pebbles) ‘Bits of licorice’ this wine is name for Jean-Pierre’s affectionate nickname as a child but also for the fennel-like licorice note that always seems to come through in this wine. 100% destemmed, 15 days maceration, largely only daily pump-overs, 7 months aging (30% in large neutral barrel the rest in tank). This is such delightful, red-fruited CdR. Always soft tannins and sophisticated balance. Ideal with unfussy bistro fare.

Mas de Libian Cotes du Rhone Khayyam 2021 - (75% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah on red river rocks and red clay) The Thebons are hardly serious, but this is is always their more ’serious’ sipper. It brings to mind cooler evenings, braises, and campfires. The Khayyam, named in homage to Omar Khayyam an 11th century Persian poet who championed women and ‘carpe diem', is grown on warm, heat-retaining soils. This comes through in its expression - always a bit more spicy and broad. This wine is fully destemmed (as are all the reds) and 30% is fermented in large oak foudres for 9 months then blended with the rest that is in concrete tank.

Bambi's Farm in the Ardeche: Mas de Libian