The wines of Sandro Fay are a bit of a sleeper in our portfolio - much like the region of Valtellina itself, where these wines are born. Which is almost… startling. As I am sure many of you have come to realize about this region (particularly from Sandro Fay), these wines give some of the greatest pleasure younger Nebbiolo (or Chiavennasca, as they call it here) can offer.

Valtellina resides in Italy hugging the Swiss border in the north. For a long part of history, it was an area that was governed by the Swiss cantons, before Austria took over in 1815 for a hot minute (or 44 years), and finally the Kingdom of Italy brought it in by 1859. The Swiss really considered it Swiss red wine until the 1980s, when they too were subject to the same tariffs as any other export country. This has a profound effect on Valtellina’s industry, as 80% of the producers shut their doors, ripped the vines, and many orchards were planted in their place.

Still, some have persevered. It takes a lot to grow grapes in Valtellina, not least of which the intense slopes that cannot be solved with mechanization. And for many years, it lived in Piedmont’s shadow - Valtellina Nebbiolos are lighter, more elegant, and misunderstood by those seeking hard-hitting, long-lived tannins from those in Barolo.

The geography of Valtellina can be best described as rather severe slopes ranging from 350-900 meters in elevation - vineyards gazing towards the southeast and southwest primarily. Soils are the aftermath of an ice age that carved out granite slopes that have degraded into a mixture of gravels and clay in some parts as well as even more acidic sand/silt in other parcels. The slopes are magnificently steep, terraced by UNESCO protected muretti (kind of like those you might see in the Wachau). The valley is held together by the Adda River. The winds come from all direction with their own purpose. To the north, the Rhaetian Alps protect against cool, harsh winds as do the Orobie Alps to the south. La Breva coming up from Lake Como, however, offers warms and drying. Similarly, the Foehn from the north east brings in a bit of warmth as well.

Overall, bud break is a touch later than the Langhe by two weeks, but a vine shutdown mid-growing season makes for a later harvest as well. Thankfully, as Joseph Micallef points out in his fantastic Forbes article (from which much of this is inspired), Nebbiolo’s later ripening qualities means that version is still a ways off mid season, so they don’t endure sunburn that makes other grapes almost impossible here.

Like all alpine reds, these wines conjure their surroundings - balsam and lingonberry, sour cherry and spiced plums. The textures are teeming with ethereal elegance, as they near dance on the palate with vibrating wonder. It’s as though they are as curious about you as you are it. They are mysterious. Wines that are meant to feel and contemplate. And few producers know how to demonstrate this so well as Sandro Fay.

Sandro Fay restored his family’s winery starting back in 1971. By 1973, he established the name Azienda Agricola Fay in his village of San Giacomo di Teglio. His children, Marco and Elena, have continued the tradition he began. Marco was inspired by the importance of single vineyards in Barolo, where he trained, and brought that back to expound upon.

There are 5 sub-zones in Valtellina - each with their own personality. From west to east, perhaps the most playful are those from Maroggia - red cherry fruit and heady florals. Sassella (named for the stones, or sassi), tend to offer a lot of spice, depth, and smooth round tannins. Grumello has more clay, and therefore are a little more broad on the palate. Inferno captures a lot of heat on these slopes, hence the name. These can have darker fruit and spicier notes. Finally, Valgella are perhaps what consumers most classically attribute to Nebbiolo’s ‘roses and tar’ notes, tart sour cherry, and firmer straight tannins.

Most of Sandro Fay's 14 hectares of organically farmed vineyards are in the eastern most sub-zone of Valgella (steep slopes draining into small streams, or Valgel), where sand and silt dominate (no clay or limestone). A small portion is from another sub zone Sassella, a remarkable ridge that protrudes from the north valley, catching a lot of southerly sun and producing slightly more robust, spicy renditions compared to the more high toned fragrant wines of Valgella.

We have both - and you should absolutely introduce them to your customers if you have not in a while. Despite their pale, pretty robe and delicate aromas, these wines warm the soul and penetrate the senses quite provocatively. They are incredible with wintertime fare, and an absolute steal compared to their more lauded Langhe neighbors.

Here what we have:

SandroFay Valtellina Superiore Valgella "Costa Bassa” DOCG 2017 - A perfect introduction to this region from some of the lower sites under 450m, crackling red fruit, heightened aromas, soft tannins, fresh acid. Inox ferment. Neutral barrel for 12 months.

SandroFay Valtelina Superiore Valgella Riserva "Carteria” DOCG 2016 - A stunning example from this 3ha parcel at 500m. Aged in 20% new 500l barrique for 12 months.

SandroFay Valtelina Superiore Sassella 'Il Glicine’ 2017 DOCG- A 470m plot that similarly is composed of sand and silt, and therefore very acidic. A touch of wild berries, tobacco, and cocoa. Aged in 20% new 500l barrique for 12 months.

SandroFay Valtelina Sforzato DOCG 'Ronco del Picchio’ 2016 DOCG - Their answer to Amarone in Valtellina, these grapes were grown on some of the highest plots at 700-900m. Grapes were dried on straw mats until Dec, then fermented in stainless steel for 20 days. Aged in 20% new 500l barriques for 12 months.

The Simply Stunning Alpine Wines of Sandro Fay in Valtellina