Giovanni Almondo: A Refreshing Reminder that Roero can be Riveting

We are eager to receive a new Italian producer into the fold this week: Giovanni Almondo. Almondo resides in Monta d’Alba, the northernmost stretches of Roero in Piedmont. Roero has been a region perhaps overlooked to more famed neighbors just kilometers away across the Tanaro River. But in recent years, the freshness and accessibility in Roero wines have made it more compelling for consumers and trade alike.

Over 75% of Roero’s 1158 hectares of planted vines are devoted to Arneis - a bright, amiable white that offers just ripe stone fruits, almond, and white florals on the palate. Think PG, but oftentimes more interesting. They can handle oak, or shine with beaming precision in stainless steel. Arneis thrives in the sandy, limestone soils of the region — a landscaped composed of mellow undulating hills laden with marine fossils that remind one that this region was once beneath the Mediterranean long before tectonic activity made its mark. For Nebbiolo, this terroir has a way of bringing orange peel and peaches to the fore — and unusually and delightful sensation.

Domenico Almondo graduated in 1980 and brought back a desire to take his family’s vineyard to the next level in quality and serious viticulture. Their family’s history here dates back 600 years, when it is said the indigenous Arneis too was recorded in this region. They work off 18 hectares in Monta, which is itself divided into a more northern sandy terrain where their Arneis (some vines as old as 60 years) dominate plantings, while the more southerly soils reflect marine fossils and calcareous clay (an ideal home for Nebbiolo). On the breezy hilltops in the north, sitting at nearly 400 meters, the Arneis can develop great structure and acidity which finds considerable texture on the palate.

The Bricco delle Ciliegie vineyard, which we will be starting with from Almondo, is a special site. These 6 hectares of 35 year old Arneis vines reflect a myriad of prior owners and the remnants of a cherry orchard - some still left standing. Protected from the late afternoon heat, this site stares to the east and southeast, soaking up the delicate morning sunshine at 340-370 meters in elevation. Wine from the northwest moderates the temperature even moreso. Though predominantly composed of coarse sand and gravels, layers of calcareous deposits can be found here as well. In all, it roughly breaks down to about 65% sand, 15% limestone, and 20% clay. They describe is as a patchwork of sorts that require special attention to pair the correct rootstock throughout.

The 2020 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis 'Bricco delle Ciliegie’ is meant to be fresh and vibrant - fermented in nearly all stainless steel on fine lees for 10 months. About 5% sees neutral barrel in order to tie it together with a hint of harmony.