In the Land of Paradox... Pietracupa.

Image from Decanter: https://www.decanter.com/premium/campania-wines-seek-out-404945/

Campania is one of of Italy’s oldest regions - which is saying something. It has a wine history that dates back to the 12th century and is surrounded by relics of a culture that has witnessed so much. Ruins from Pompeii are in its backyard — the aftermath of Mount Vesuvius’ wrath which buried the town in 79AD. To say there’s a heavy aura behind Campania's sunny smile is putting it mildly. The Tyrrhenian Sea pulls in cool breezes over its volcanic landscape — it’s quite literally the coming together of fire and water. A place of paradox and mystery. In some ways a trait that carries through to its wines which manages to walk a fine line between opulence and mineral focus. 

Campania is home to the Amalfi Coast, with its astonishing beauty and steep rocky cliffs lined with lemon groves, as well as the more chaotic, tourist-driven city of Napoli. It naturally experiences a Mediterranean climate, but a wide range of micro/meso-climates make way for a plethora of grapes and styles. Thankfully, folks like Antonio Mastroberardino saved this region’s most important, indigenous varieties, such as Fiano, Greco, Aglianico, and a range of grapes in the Falanghina family. It’s producers like Sabino Laffredo of Pietracupa that carry on this tradition in Campania focusing on its native cultivars. 

High up in the mountains of Montefredane, due north of the famed province of Avellino, at over 2000 feet in elevation (some reaching as high as 2,400 feet), Sabino farms about 7.5 hectares of land. He took over from his father Peppino in 1999 who founded the family estate just a decade earlier with just 3 ha. The soils here are unsurprisingly volcanic, but they also harness loamy clay-like soils with chalky calcareous tufo materials as well. The vineyards face southeast and experience a fairly deep diurnal contrast in temperature, creating intense freshness in the resulting wines. Sabino captures the purity of these whites by omitting MLF and any kind of maceration of the skins. 

Though relatively new to the scene in Campania, Sabino has quickly established himself as one of the most important winemakers in the region crafting some of the best expressions of these local varieties. He has received high marks from critics and countless accolades from respectable palates such as Ian d’Agata and Gambero Rosso. Above all these wines are noted for their almost immaculate elegance. 

Here’s what we have on the shelf right now: 

Pietracupa Falanghina 2021 - Whimsical and fun, this falaghina is the essence of fresh, Mediterranean white wine — white florals and winter pear. Demands a little seafood and sun to come into its best self. 

Pietracupa Greco di Tufo -Some have called Greco Sabino’s best medium. This is Campania’s richer, more tannic white variety. It has layers of curiosity built into its texture. These are stunning when done well. So who better than the best?

Pietracupa Fiano 2019 - A gorgeous introduction to Sabino’s Fiano - the one you sip while the Cupo ages. While some from this area can be oily and smoky, those from the high alpine spots produce lean, mineral intensity — lifted fragrance and firm backbone of acidity. That’s more Sabino’s style here. 

Pietracupa 'Cupo’ 2018 - Crema del raccolto (do they say cream of the crop in Italian? — I may have made that up…). This is the very best Fiano vines from Pietracupa’s vineyards. All stainless steel but aging 18 months on the lees, this is the deepest expression of Fiano we can offer you. This right here is why so many feel Fiano is one of Italy’s most complex white varieties.