Origin stories matter. The power of narrative helps us shape and understand our often messy world. Wine has plenty of these tales, from Dom Pérignon’s accidental discovery of sparkling wine to Robert Parker’s rise to fame with his contrarian enthusiasm for 1982 Bordeaux. But these stories are problematic in various ways. The Pérignon story is fiction; the Parker tale is only partly true.
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It’s always a good sign when restaurant professionals are regular patrons of a dining establishment. It was a Colorado restaurateur and wine director who alerted me to the list at Vin48, where wine director Greg Eynon marks up his bottles between 200% and 250% over wholesale (versus the 300% to 400% that is all too commonplace).
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In a dozen years of tastings, the Dining section wine panel had seldom if ever faced a joyous trove like this one. We each had before us 20 glasses of red Burgundy from the 2010 vintage, all from villages in the Côte de Nuits, somewhat modest wines in the Burgundian hierarchy yet beautiful nonetheless.
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